Here in Oslo there is an "alternativ jul" - christmas without the religion bit - which has as its central tenet that "good will to all" and "charity" are not the preserve of christians (who in fact have a very mixed track record in dispensing either). It uses the occasion to launch an awareness campaign of the plight of the less well-off and homeless (no joke at this latitude) which involves enlisting committments of support beyond the holiday. It also runs "crisis lines" (all very good humoured stuff) in the run-up to the holiday for people who can't decide which is worse - the sanctimonious bullshit emanating from christian quarters or the advent of the dreaded country cousins on their annual visit.

Highlight is an alternative julebord (christmas party) on the 25th from which proceeds go to charity and where people are fined if they use the word "Jesus" in any context - and triple-fined if they stick "baby" anywhere in the title. At the party today the giant screen (well, rather big screen) showed the pope's Urbi Et Orbi address from the Vatican balcony with added canned laughter and superimposed price tags on all the Vatican property in view. The real highlight however was the gay ex-mayor of Oslo regaling us with a brilliant Marilyn Monroe impersonation while (s)he sang "Jesus Baby". His fine was astronomical by the time he was done but it was great fun.

Did you know that the pope's funny hat retails at 40,000 kroner? Cheapest item on view today on the balcony apparently.